Problems & repairs
Warped or rotten timber: repair or replace?
Push a screwdriver into it. If it goes in easily, the timber is gone, and the question becomes how far.

Here is the test that answers most of it: press a screwdriver firmly into the suspect area. Sound timber resists. Soft, crumbly or spongy timber has failed, and the job then is to find where the good timber starts. Small, localised decay in a non structural component can often be cut out and spliced. Anything structural, widespread, or still wet from an unfixed source of water needs replacing, and the water source dealt with first or you will be doing it again.
Warped, split or rotten: three different problems
They look similar from across a room and need entirely different responses.
- Warped or bowed: the timber has moved with moisture but is still sound. Often correctable or liveable.
- Split or checked: surface cracking along the grain, usually cosmetic on external timber.
- Wet rot: soft, darkened, damp timber where water has been getting in. Localised to the wet area.
- Dry rot: spreads beyond the damp area, with fine strands and a musty smell. This one needs specialist assessment.
When a repair is genuinely the right answer
Splicing in new timber works well on door frames, thresholds, window sills, deck fascias and skirting, where the damaged section is limited and the surrounding timber is sound and dry.
It is also the right call on period property, where the original mouldings and section sizes are worth keeping and a modern replacement would look wrong.
When replacement is the only honest answer
Structural members carrying load, decking joists, anything where the decay runs further than you can cut back to, and any case where dry rot is suspected. Filling over failed timber hides the problem for a season and costs more in the end.
We will tell you which of these you have. If a repair will not last, we would rather say so than take the money twice.
Stop the water first
Rot is a symptom. A leaking gutter, a failed seal, a blocked threshold drain or ground level built up above the damp course will destroy new timber just as happily as it destroyed the old. Fixing the cause is part of the job, not an optional extra.
Questions we're asked about this
Send us a photo and we will tell you which it is
A close up plus a wider shot of the area is usually enough for us to advise before arranging a free visit.
Get a free quote
Reply within 24 hours - No obligation
