Carpentry guides & advice

Written from the work we do rather than from a keyword list. Each guide covers one specific question — why a door catches, whether a deck frame is worth keeping, what a lease says about your flooring — with enough detail that you can make a decision before anyone quotes you.

Problems & repairs

Diagnostic guides for things that have gone wrong — what causes them, which fixes actually last, and when a repair stops being worthwhile.

Internal door sticking or catching: what's actually causing it

Diagnosing the difference between a swollen door, a dropped hinge and a moved frame.

Creaking floorboards: tracing the noise and fixing it for good

Movement, not age, is what makes a floor talk.

Rotten door frames and sills: repair, splice or replace

Wet rot in a frame is a symptom. Fixing the timber without fixing the water is a short-term job.

Kitchen snagging: putting right the details a fit left behind

The carcasses are usually fine. It's the second fix that gives kitchens away.

Loose spindles, moving newels and handrail repairs

A staircase is a structure. When part of it moves, the load path has usually changed.

Bathroom doors that warp, swell or stop latching

One-sided moisture is the fastest way to bow a door leaf.

Decking repairs: is it the boards or the frame underneath?

Boards are the visible part. The frame is what decides whether a repair is worth doing.

Panelling that cracks, gaps or lifts after fitting

Panelling problems are nearly always moisture, movement or the wrong adhesive.

Warped or rotten timber: repair or replace?

Push a screwdriver into it. If it goes in easily, the timber is gone, and the question becomes how far.

Door dropping or binding: does it need planing or rehanging?

Planing a door that has dropped is the most common wrong fix. It works for a fortnight, then the gap is worse and the door is smaller.

Creaking stairs: what the noise is actually telling you

A creak is timber moving against timber. Find which two pieces are moving and the repair becomes obvious.

Gate dropping or dragging on the ground: what has gone wrong

A gate that has dropped is nearly always a post problem wearing a hinge problem's clothing.

Materials & comparisons

Straight comparisons of the materials and systems we work with, written around how they behave in real rooms rather than showroom marketing.

Engineered wood vs laminate: choosing by how the room is used

They look similar in a showroom and behave completely differently in a hallway.

Composite vs timber decking: the differences that actually matter

The choice changes the frame beneath as much as the surface on top.

MDF or solid timber for built-in joinery?

For painted fitted work, the 'cheaper' material is often the technically better one.

Choosing timber for outdoor work: species, treatment and detailing

The specification matters, but the detailing decides how long it lasts.

Solid, engineered or hollow-core: choosing internal doors

The core changes how the door sounds, how it hangs and what you can fix into it.

Wall panelling styles: what suits which room

The style you choose changes the setting-out, not just the look.

Herringbone flooring: what to know before you commit

The blocks are the easy part. Setting out is what makes or breaks the floor.

Softwood vs hardwood: which is right for your job?

The names describe the tree, not the toughness. What matters is where the timber is going.

Fitted or freestanding wardrobes: which suits your room?

The right answer depends on the shape of the room far more than on taste.

Types of garden gate, and which one suits your entrance

Side access, front garden and driveway are three different problems with three different gates.

Choosing a staircase style that suits the house

The balustrade sets the character. The rest of the flight usually stays where it is.

Engineered or solid wood flooring: which belongs in your room

Both are real wood. The difference is what sits underneath the surface, and that decides where each one can safely go.

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